The Magical & Beautiful Lakes of England’s Lake District
There are 463 lakes and tarns in the Lake District. It’s not possible to visit them all in a week (or most probably, a lifetime). Listed below is a brief description of the most beautiful and most accessible. A number of each Lake’s attractions is listed along with places to stay and eat.
Bassenthwaite
The only body of water in the Lake District to carry the name ‘lake’, the others are called meres, or waters and the inspiration for Tennyson’s ‘Morte d’Arthur’, and no wonder. At times, the lake has a mysterious and haunting quality. It is best viewed from neighbouring Skiddaw and the Thornthwaite Forest. Access is only possible on the east side at the country house, Mirehouse. To preserve the wildlife, powerboats are banned. There are no public launch sites and little development on the shores. The southern end is popular with twitchers. In April and May the RSPB sets up a 24-hour watch for the osprey. You can watch the birds via field glasses from the osprey viewpoint in Dodd Wood, opposite the entrance to Mirehouse on the east shore.
Attractions: Dinghy Sailing, Pike Fishing, Bird Watching.
Places to Visit: Mirehouse & Gardens , The Lakes Distillery , Thornthwaite Galleries & Teashop Whinlatter Forest
Eat & Drink: The Pheasant & Old Sawmills Lodge & Cafe
Stay: Armathwaite Hall Hotel & Spa, Highside Farm, Kestrel Lodge Camp Site, The Cottage In The Wood
Buttermere.
‘The Lake of the Dairy Pastures’. There are few places so beautiful in this world as Buttermere and no surprise that it is considered by many to be the most picturesque of the 16 main bodies of water. Listen for the sound of running water. Its soothing sound will haunt you for hours. The becks rush down the hillside, and Sour Milk Ghyll thunders down from Bleaberry Tarn.
Attractions: Aesthetics. 4.5 mile circular walk from Buttermere village.
Eat & Drink: Croft Farm Cafe Fish Hotel Syke Farm Tea Room & Ice Cream Parlour
Stay: Syke Farm Camp Site
Coniston Water
The eastern side of Coniston Water provides the finest views, with the ‘Old Man of Coniston’ in the background. Follow the road down past Brantwood, John Ruskin’s home overlooking the lake and its green pastures, and on the south side, the location for many of “Swallows and Amazons” adventures. Further down is Machel Coppice, a fine spot for picnics and nature trails. Further picnic spots beside the A5084. In 1967, Coniston witnessed the tragic scene of Donald Campbell’s death, when Bluebird somersaulted during his attempt to further his own world water speed record of 260.35mph. At a more sedate pace, a very satisfying experience is to take a trip on the Steam Yacht Gondola, or with Coniston Launch Services.
Attractions: Brantwood, Coniston Launch, Ruskin Museum, Steam Yacht Gondola
Eat & Drink: Bluebird Cafe, Lakeside, The Terrace, Brantwood
Crummock Water
The Celtic name for crooked, or bent lake is surrounded by mountains. The Aperitif before you are seduced by the beauty of its neighbour, Buttermere. Great walking area. Fine views from Lanthwaite Hill towards Buttermere and Great Gable. Look out for the sound of
Scale Force which plummets 100 feet south of Mellbreak into these waters. This lake offers good fishing: rods and boats may be hired from the National Trust. Recommended walks: up Rannerdale Beck, or for the more active, to Mellbreak, through the blooming heather. The battle ground for a victory for the Anglo-Saxons over the Normans.
Attractions: Walking Area. Solitude.
Derwent Water
‘The Queen of the Lakes’ and arguably the most beautiful (though to some, Ullswater might just take the honour) and bordered by two valleys of exceptional beauty: Borrowdale and Newlands. It is one of the largest and most accessible. A circular drive provides breathtaking panoramas, although it’s even better viewed from a bicycle in the quieter times of day. The lake is ringed by towering peaks, green valleys and woodland which sweep down to the water’s edge. Skiddaw, and the Derwent Fells, leave their mirror-like reflections for us to record. Easy walks to Friar’s Crag and Castle Head. Excellent skating during a winter freeze. Good fishing. Boats for hire, or steam trips from Lakeside. Beside Friar’s Crag, a memorial stone to John Ruskin.
Attractions: Cat Bells (for the view), Derwent Water Marina, Portinscale, Keswick Launch, Lingholm Kitchen & Walled garden, Portinscale, Theatre By The Lake
Elterwater
Known as the ‘Swan Lake’. In winter, the elusive Whooper Swan flies in from Siberia - listen for its trumpeting cry. Indeed it can be fabulous in a hoar frost. This tranquil and reedy lake lies secluded in a lush green valley. There are fine views from the eastern side, and the northern banks looking across to the Langdales and Wetherlam. Nearby, the waterfall Skelwith Force.
Eat, Drink, Sleep: Brittania Inn, Eltermere Inn, Langdale Hotel & Brimstone Spa
Ennerdale Water
The westerly location and inaccessibility provide peace and solitude for the serious walker. This wild and remote area is popular with mountaineers intent on scaling Pillar, Great Gable and the High Stile range. A circular walk of the lake takes about four hours. The best viewpoint is near the car park at Bowness Point. No amenities.
Attractions: Waymarked Forest Trails. Isolation.
Esthwaite Water
A pretty lake surrounded by fields, hillocks, woodland and set in a gentle landscape that inspired so much of Beatrix Potter’s prose., and well stocked with fish. Fishing permits from the Esthwaite Estate. On the west side, the Hawkshead Trout Farm. A footpath, loved by Wordsworth who wrote of this lake in ‘The Prelude’, leads to the north west shore from Hawkshead.
Attractions: Hill Top, Esthwaite Water Trout Fishing
Eat, Drink, Sleep: Ees Wyke, Near Sawrey, Sawrey House Hotel, Near Sawrey, Tower Bank Arms, Far Sawrey
Grasmere
Quite magical at dawn with the early dew and rising mist, and a firm favourite with the Wordsworth who made regular picnic visits to the surrounding shore. Loughrigg Terrace affords a spectacular view of the lake and distant, Helvellyn. Grasmere means ‘The lake with the grassy shore’. Home of mute swans, coot and moorhen. Rowing boats can be hired from Allonby’s and a trip to the island for a picnic is not to be missed. Loughrigg Terrace provides excellent views of the lake, the Fairfield Horseshoe and Helvellyn.
Attractions: Dove Cottage, Gingerbread Shop, Heaton Cooper Studio
Eat & Drink: Jumble Room, Mathilde’s Cafe
Stay: Daffodil Hotel & Spa, Forest Side, Moss Grove Organic B&B, Rothay Garden Hotel & Spa, The Yan
Loweswater
An often forgotten little lake, “The Leafy Lake” – remote with a popular bridlepath that surrounds, very it popular with mountain bikers.
Eat, Drink, Sleep: The Kirkstile Inn lies in the south-east corner, an oasis of ale and good pub-grub.
Rydal Water
’Rothaymere’ or ‘Routhermere’ meaning “the lake in the valley where the rye is grown”. This reedy little lake is one of the prettiest and another great favourite with the Wordsworths. Gulls roost along the shoreline. Take the easy circular walk at dawn and dusk, and on clear winter days to appreciate its magical qualities.
Stay: Rydal Hall, Ambleside Manor B&B, Apple Pie Rooms B&B, Glen Rothay B&B, The Waterwheel B&B
Thirlmere
This reservoir was formerly two lakes, Leatheswater and Brackmere, until their marriage (of convenience) in the 1880s. Its formation was controversial and had many opponents but the Manchester Corporation eventually had their way and the two farming hamlets of Armboth and Wythburn were submerged in 1894. The west side is planted with coniferous woodland and there are forest trails on each side. From Wythburn church on the east bank a steep and direct path leads up to the summit of Helvellyn. Allow three hours for this walk which may reward you, if your luck’s in, with fine panoramic views but don’t be surprised if the mist comes down. First check the weather forecast.
Tarn Hows
Probably the most popular tarn, it’s very pretty and picturesque; especially in Autumn and Winter, when it is possible to skate. Choose your time wisely to visit this extremely popular circular walk; dawn or dusk is preferable to normal hours. Two car parks cater for the thousands of visitors. Circular walk.
Eat, Drink, Sleep: Drunken Duck Inn, Yew Tee Farm, Yewfield B&B
Ullswater
For sheer grandeur, variety, magnificent scenery and ever changing moods, Ullswater is considered to be ‘The Lake’ of the Lake District. It is best appreciated if approached from Pooley Bridge, for as one journeys towards Glenridding the landscape grows even finer. The walk from Howtown, on the east bank, to Glenridding is full of surprises. But, on the west side in a field close to Aira Beck and Lyulph’s Tower, William Wordsworth lay admiring the daffodils and was inspired to write the verse ‘I wandered lonely as a cloud.’ This serpentine lake offers fine sailing. A sailing school, Outward Bound Centre and the Ullswater Steamers are based at Glenridding. But, if you have the wherewithal, and are in need of a special lunch or cream tea, stop off at the Sharrow Bay Hotel (if open) on the east side for a memorable and mouth watering experience. If feeling
adventurous you may wish to explore the south-east corner by car. If you do, take a picnic and refreshments, for there is nothing but sheep, long vistas of mountains and two quite enchanting valleys (Boardale and Howe Grain), and the isolated villages Howtown and Martindale. The view from Hallin Fell is not so dramatic as from the other side on Gowbarrow Fell. Nevertheless, the walk up Hallin Fell is a relatively easy family walk.
Attractions: Rookin House Farm Equestrian & Activity Centre, Ullswater Steamers
Eat, Drink, Sleep: Another Place, Allium at Askham Hall, Queens Head Inn
Eat: Granny Dowbekin’s Tearooms, Pooley Bridge
Wastwater
The deepest and most dramatic of all the lakes. It is “The Valley with the Lake.” Some believe this to be Britain’s favourite view. It is out on a limb and quite a trek to get here via the A59, so make a day of it. ‘The Valley with the Lake’ is the deepest, most dramatic and haunting of all the lakes. It draws me to visit it time and time again. No matter what the weather, it is always a thrill to drive up the road towards Wasdale Head. The scenery is rugged, indeed awe-inspiring, especially the Screes overlooking the south-east corner - a mass of rubble rising to nearly 2,000 feet. A quite unforgettable sight, for it appears to drop straight into the lake down a further 600 feet. There is a rugged footpath, tough going in places, which passes beneath the Screes beside the lake. The view up the valley towards Yewbarrow, Great Gable and Scafell is memorable. No boating allowed.
Attractions: Walking & climbing. Isolation. Impressive Screes. Wasdale Show in October.
Eat, Drink, Sleep: The Strands Inn & Brewery, Nerther Wasdale, Wasdale Head Inn
Windermere
England’s largest lake and without doubt the most famous in Lakeland though perhaps not the most dramatic or beautiful. The northern skyline is indented with volcanic peaks and the southern shore heavily wooded with broadleaf trees. There are splendid views from Orrest Head, Claife Heights and Brockhole. You can also achieve some memorable views from the comforts of a hotel or two overlooking the lake. These are in no order of charm: Holbeck Ghyll, Langdale Chase, Miller Howe, Storrs Hall and The Samling. These buildings and their like were built by wealthy industrialists of the Victorian and Edwardian era mostly to impress their wives and mistresses. Today the lake is bounded on the east side by a plethora of state-of-the-art homes owned by wealthy footballers and successful businessmen. The lake can be noisy and congested with traffic although a 10mph speed limit is now in place and this has cut the numbers of craft on the water. No visit to Windermere would be complete without a visit to Windermere Jetty on Rayrigg Road. Here you will see an array of boat design that originated on Windermere.
Attractions: Blackwell - The Arts & Craft House, Brockhole on Windermere, The World of Beatrix Potter, Treetop Nets treetop, Windermere Jetty, Museum of Boats, Steam & Stories, Windermere Lake Cruises
Eat, Drink, Sleep: Holbeck Ghyll & Spa, Linthwaite House Hotel, Low Wood Bay Resort & Spa, Miller Howe Hotel On The Lake, Storrs Hall, The Gilpin, The Knoll
Stay: Randy Pike B&B,
Light Bites & Ale: Homeground Coffee & Kitchen, Hole In t’ Wall, Bowness
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